Southsider
Magazine – June 2005
Arts, Crafts & Countryside
Kentucky is known for its abundance of resident artists and the
state’s beauty is well publicized. Kentucky’s Artisan
Heritage Trails have blended these resources with the basic requirements
of a vacation and created sensible routes for locals and out-of-towners
alike to spend an afternoon or a week discovering some of the
area’s lesser-known treasures.
A trip that includes visiting museums, wineries, parks, and artists’
studios involves a lot of planning. How do you get from one place
to the next? Where to stay? How do you entertain everyone on the
trip when interests vary? Stop at the Kentucky Artisan Center
at Berea, right off I-75 and get a map, or visit www.KAHT.com.
The logistics are already worked out for you. The Artisan Trails
are a ready-to-use set of directions with a list of optional points
of interest that vary from farms to bed and breakfasts to artists’
studios where you can shop or simply watch work in progress.
The KAHT is a collaborative effort between the National Geographic
Society and the Appalachian Regional Commission. What started
as four trails in 2001 has expanded to 15 trails that run through
rural Kentucky south and east of Lexington. Each trail is designed
to promote a particular area’s treasures: artisan studios,
local galleries, scenic overlooks, historic points, quaint inns,
and regional fare—to name a few of the things we encountered.
I chose a lesser-known trail close to home, the Estill Trail.
The Estill Trail begins only 20 miles outside Lexington, so it
was a sensible and easy way to get a taste of the trails with
only a day to devote. This short drive was akin to visiting another
era, another place altogether—and a welcome sojourn into
the amazingly rich cultural heritage of Kentucky. At a comfortable
pace, I along with a student photographer, her mother, and a friend—explored
the back roads of Estill County in a day that, I can comfortably
say, equated to a step back into Kentucky’s history…as
well as a hopeful step forward into its future.
We reached our first stop, Overlook Stained Glass and Gem Stones,
a short drive from I-75, at 10 a.m. We were greeted by our first
of many canine receptions that day, and right behind the three
tail wagging ambassadors were Bob and Brenda Clair, who, with
no prior notice of our visit, greeted us like favored long-lost
relatives. My main interest in the trails had been to see the
studios and handcrafts, but the vast stretches of natural beauty
that surrounded almost every stop were enjoyably distracting.
We lingered outside until the sunlight hit one of Brenda’s
glass works in the studio window and beckoned us indoors. As was
typical of what we saw that day, we were in a working studio,
strewn with the tools and raw materials that were behind the beautiful
pieces displayed around us. Agates and gems, collected over numerous
years, lay in cases and on shelves all around, and the Clairs
were more than willing to tell us their story. They couldn’t
have found a more attentive audience.
“The last six months, we seem to be getting some more attention
with this KAHT program,” Bob told us when he pointed out
the sunburst sign designating the studio as participating in the
program.
Stop two left my small sedan bottomed out on the gravel driveway
approach to Cusick Creations and we ended up backing out and parking
in a nearby driveway (well close by Estill County standards).
The hike up to the studio was a hike in the woods and brought
us our second, and a bit more daunting, canine greeting. It seems
that no one sneaks up to any of these rural studios unannounced!
All bark and no bite, we visited a studio-in-progress and glimpsed
a Kentucky mountainside that made the hubbub of Lexington seem
a million miles away. Cindi Cusick’s talents include painting,
photography, printing, and gourd art…and again, the ability
to make us feel like we were old friends.
From there the trip into Irvine was a short drive. I called ahead
and was assured a particular store would be open, but when we
got there, it was closed. However, a nearby jewelry store was
warm and hospitable and folks there pointed us to another Irvine
treasure on a nearby side street, Cat’s Paw. The shop is
scheduled to officially join the KAHT trail soon. It offers the
work of some exceptional local artists, plus antiques. This small-town
highlight featured doll houses—some sold, but awaiting the
signature of the unique artist who had created them, and whimsical
birdcages spun of vines and twigs that seemed to float in the
air. A bit off the main street, it was well worth the walk. While
heading back to the car, we found the previously closed Front
Porch Gallery and Studio had opened its doors. A quaint porched
home/gallery on Main Street, it carries the works of a number
of artisans, but it was the work of owner Yvonne Summers that
caught our eye. A family of avid hunters and an area of vast forests
has provided her with a collection of beautiful natural specimens—most
notable were antlers—and from these she has woven incredible
baskets, from small and functional to large artworks to be hung
for display only. Tiny birdhouses, similar in material and look
to the well-known Longaberger baskets, were perched throughout
and raku pieces hung from the walls and stood on the shelves.
Gourds, jewelry, and weavings were found in every corner—and
the signature hospitality had become a constant.
A chance encounter with Barbara Napier, executive director of
Estill Development Alliance and proprietor of Snug Hollow Farm
Bed & Breakfast & Cabin, provided a glance into a bright
future for Estill County’s cultural program. “We’ve
gotten a grant for $972,000 to restore the Cottage Furnace,”
she said. “It’s a statement.”
Legend has it that the owner of the furnace received word that
his son had died and, while still in shock from the news, shut
down the furnace still in full blast. The molten iron solidified
and blocked the entrance, keeping the furnace from ever being
fired up again. The iron ore remains inside to this day. The grant
will be used to restore it to working condition. Enthusiastic,
informative, and smiling, Barb verbally walked us through the
attractions of Irvine and its surroundingss, then pointed us towards
our last studio, The Glass Garden in nearby Ravenna.
Maria Lainhart, the designer and artist, gladly showed us around,
proud of her restoration work and the story of her home. “It’s
called the Moberley Place and two years ago my daughter and I
found the grave—up across the way in a cemetery there—of
the man who built it, John Moberley. It was 100 years, to the
day, of the day he died marked on his gravestone. Gave my daughter
goose pimples." The views from her window, where exquisite
stain glass windows hang, are exquisite as well. "I plant
an eighth of an acre with nothing but sunflowers in the summer,"
she said. "You should see it then." I plan to.
Kentucky Artisan Heritage Trails is a developing program that
is not without its initial problems, but officials are busy working
to correct them. The artwork is unique, the artists and artisans
talented and hospitable, and the studios and galleries are nestled
amidst Kentucky’s beautiful scenery. The KAHT Web site offers
detailed information on all the trails, the attractions on each
route, plus phone numbers, descriptions, and detailed directions.
Call ahead to make sure of times, take someone to help navigate,
and appreciate, and enjoy the vast talents and beauty that our
state has to offer.
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